Yamaha YZF-R125

Putte5000 kirjoitti:Bongasin Nettimotosta yhdestä Yzäristä tällaisen tekstin:

"Sytyksestä poistettu 4° viivekuristus magneettianturia siirtämällä aikaisemmalle. Lisää huomattavasti vääntöä alakierroksilla joka venyy pidemmälle keskialueelle josta saadaan enemmän voimaa!! Ei vaikuta moottorin- eikä polttoaineen kulutukseen. "

Mitä, mitä? Tuosta en ole kuullutkaan ja mietin, että miksi. Jos tuo on mahdollista, niin miksi kukaan ei ole täällä siitä maininnut, tai ainakaan en itse ole huomannut jos joku tuosta on täällä puhunut.

Mitäs sanotte, onko mahdollista, että tuolla saadaan lisää tehoa?

E: Ainiin, mainittakoon, että kyseisessä pyörässä GPR kokoputkisto.

Kolmetoista kirjoitti:Onko kuinka kova homma?

Thanks for the encouragement guys, Today I set about doing the 4 degree retard fix, or some ways towards fixing it. ....... As I'm not quite sure if the retard is across the whole ignition curve or just pulled back near the top........ Any way this is the simple attack mode. It's an easy fix.

Take of the fairing panels on the lefthand side. And the fairing support bracket.
If you want you can drain the oil. I did, or just place a tub under the stator cover side of the bike.
Remove the front sprocket cover.
Disconnect the neutral light switch, cable and move out of the way, I tape things up.
Undo the bolts in the stator cover, lift the coolant bottle out of the way and tape it up.
Undo the earth wire bolt located behind the chain, it's on the motor, remove long bolt and don't forget to put it back.
Gently lift of the stator housing/cover, careful of the gasket, and ease it towards the front of the bike. If you haven't drained oil, you are about to see why the tub is there.
Turning the housing over to view the stator you will see the timing sensor and the two cap screws that retain it.
Undo the cap screws and lift the sensor away from the housing, you will need to lift the rubber sealing blocks on the wires out as well, so you can vice grip the sensor to the chassis, on the part where the fairing support bracket attaches. The sensor mounting plate must be clamped extremely firm so you can work on it and it will have to be repositioned several times. Rest the stator housing on the side of the motor and tape it up.
Cover everthing with rags or plastic, so metal filings cannot get in, yes the tub with oil in it if your going to reuse the oil.
The sensor base has locating rings stamped into it so first job is to clamp down the plate and file them off.
Then looking at the sensor as it was in in stator housing using a 6mm round file ( I used a chainsaw sharpening file, much sharper) enlongate both mounting holes to the RIGHT of their original positioning, BY 3mm, I have used my degree wheel to establish that this is the equivilant to a 4 degrees advance, of the sensor position.
You will then have to file a bit of the left hand end of the sensor mounting plate to get it to fit clear of some castings for it's its new position.
Screw it back into place, and than put it all back together, reverse the steps above, and tip, I used inch paint brush to dust the iron filings of the sensor as I worked, and remember that when you remove the covers /plastics, that they may have filings on them as well, an oily rag will pick up any residual filings on the sensor/

Does it work.... well yes, it did, immediate response down low, and mid range, revs easily but with a bit more power to be felt. UNFORTUNATLY, I was also trying a new exhaust configuration that lost me a whole lot of power and revs at the top of the rev range so I can't tell you what the mod was like there. ummmm would not pull past 9,500 rpms even down hill, dead as a door nail. So tomoz I'm up for another try with a different pipe and if that's sh!t I'm back to my own, Hopefully I'll have some extra good news pass on.